The alcohol content of California wines has been creeping upward, a trend that some winemakers would like to see reversed, the Los Angeles Times reported Jan. 9.

In the 1990s, wines produced by Ojai Vineyard were typically 12 or 13 percent alcohol; today, the standard is closer to 16 percent. That's too high, says winemaker Adam Tolmach, who wants to reduce the alcohol content of Ojai's Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Syrah wines to about 14 percent.

"We got the scores we wanted, but we went away from what I personally like," Tolmach said. "We lost our rudder when we went for ever bolder, riper flavors."

"Take any 20 winemakers, and they are all thinking about alcohol levels," added Joe Davis, owner of Arcadian Winery.

"There is a lot to be said for these bigger wines," said winemaker Ray Coursen of Napa Valley Elyse wines. "But one thing is certain, two people can't share a bottle with dinner," because the wine overwhelms the meal.

In winemaking terminology, complex, high-alcohol wines are referred to as "big," and are a big hit with wine critics. But Tolmach said that American winemakers should refocus on creating wines that have less alcohol without tasting thin or acidic. "I want to take the Eurocentric sense of balance and apply it in California," he said. "We add no acid. No water. It's about picking at the right time and from cooler climate vineyards."