Smoking Gaulloises has long been synonymous with French cafe life, but now the nation's fabled cafes are being battered by the clash of this tradition with shifting attitudes on health.

The French Press Agency reported May 19 that many cafes have closed as patrons opt for less smoky and more sophisticated bars and clubs. A recent survey found that 41 percent of French people now say they visit cafes regularly, down from 81 percent in 1997.

The French still see cafes as a key part of their culture, but cite a lack of nonsmoking areas and high prices as the main reasons for staying away. Cafes' lack of good music and entertainment also are seen as negatives in the study by the group France Boissons.

Eighty percent of respondents also said that they were staying home more because of rising prices and to avoid exposure to tobacco smoke.