''This is not how college drinking is done," said senior Christian Allen, 21, as he sipped a glass of pinot noir with his dinner in a smaller room off of Colby's main dining hall. "Having good-quality alcohol with a meal -- it bucks the trend of college drinking."

School administrators say the alcohol policy prepares students for drinking in moderation as adults. But critics disagree. "Any program that gives that message -- that alcohol is a necessary part of getting along in the world -- is problematic," said Bill DeJong, director of the Center for College Health and Safety. "It's certainly something they should think through."

Between 30 and 40 Colby students take part in Friday night dinners where up to two drink tickets are available for $2 each. IDs are checked at the door. Brewery owners and others sometimes show up to make presentations on food pairings and the brewing process.

A pair of Colby seniors came up with the idea for the program, but were initially rebuffed by college officials. "Like a good administrator, I said, 'Of course, we can't do that,'" recalled Dean of Students Janice Kassman. But she later reconsidered, and reported that there have been no problems or complaints about the program so far.

"It's dinner and two drinks in a supervised setting," Kassman said. "This hasn't rocked our world. It's not some bacchanalian revel."

Bates College also has a Friday afternoon seniors' program where beer is served, and a number of rural schools have bars on campus where students can drink. Some allow 21-year-olds to serve alcohol at dorm parties with a permit and training.

Many schools favor education over punishment in trying to cope with student drinking, said Henry Wechsler, director of Harvard's College Alcohol Study. ''I'm disappointed that more schools aren't limiting access, because we have some evidence that it cuts down modestly on the problem," Wechsler said. "Alcohol education has been underway for at least 30 years, and it hasn't worked so far."

But Michael Haines, director of the National Social Norms Resource Center at Northern Illinois University, said the Colby program could change attitudes toward drinking on campus. "By allowing the students who act appropriately to be visible, it should influence other students," he said.

Some students at Colby agreed, but Katie Gagne, 21, noted: "Some people are thinking it's an excuse to start [drinking] earlier."

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